Mechanical Advantage Applied: Raising a Climber from a Top Managed Belay

There are many scenarios where a top managed belay is the preferred option. On multipitch climbs or top-accessible single pitches, most climbers will face a scenario where a top managed system is required.

My preferred top managed belay setup is to use a Black Diamond ATC Guide in autoblock mode. With this setup, the belayer can remain outside the system while still being able to manage the belay. An additional advantage of autoblock mode is the ability to release the brake strand (with a backup system) and construct various systems based on need.

There are a vast number of scenarios where a climber would need to be raised to the belay. A climber could be unable to finish a climb, they could be injured, there could be a time sensitive weather event, and a million other scenarios. It is extremely important to be well practiced with the skills required in order to react to a situation that may arise.

In order to raise a climber, a simple 3:1 mechanical advantage system can be used. Simply attach a sewn prusik or autoblock cord to the climbers strand, clip a carabiner to the brake strand of the rope, and pull the brake strand in the opposite direction of the climbers strand.

A pulley can be attached to the brake strand to reduce friction, but is not required.

Having a growth mindset as a climber is imperative to stay safe and expand your arsenal of rope skills. Understanding how to apply mechanical advantage can be a life saving skill, and practicing it in a controlled environment is the best way to ensure safety when you are at the crag.